Monday, February 15, 2010

The TOJ peacoat

(Perry from Australia, wearing his TOJ peacoat)

About 6 months ago, people had asked me to make a peacoat. I have had a whole laundry list of items that I've been working since last summer, and I included the pea in my agenda.

Well, that took longer than I expected. A learning experience, to be certain; when Dan joined forces with me, I put him in charge of getting the pea coat realized, and it was toil and tears for both of us. We got a pattern made with our personal guru on a CAD table, we went to a factory in Anyang, about an hour away from Seoul, where they only make tailored wear, they took one look at the pattern and scrapped it and made their own, their sample turned out weird, we had chosen the wrong materials, rinse and repeat a couple more times; yeah. It was not fruitful for more than a couple months.

We finally got someone who did the right thing, and it was ready in December. The pattern was a lot easier than expected, and the production process made it seem like we had wasted two months away from home when we should've just been following our normal model of production - it's the hard way, but the best way to get people what they want.

The end product - amazing. I am really happy to have seen this project to completion and not scrapped it, because the coats turned out amazing. The fit is slightly boxy; a trimmer front with a bit of boxy undulation in the back and sleeves, something a little modern looking without any deliberately outward modern details - it's all in the cut. Think a little Jil Simons with less techno. You get slightly roped shoulder heads and they rest softly and do not bear on the shoulder, and a classically shaped collar that still looks modern.

I have plans to make a double breasted trench coat for Spring, and I won't have to waste two months getting it to market this time, which I'm thankful for. I also know exactly what I want in my next coats, and that means I will be turning up the heat a lot.

All in all, a great first outing for Toj tailoreds. I plan to do a lot more with this playing card in the future.

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